Tacloban, Leyte: Epilogue

“Where will I meet you?” || Good coffee and pseudo-kaya toast at The Coffee Lounge, Robinson’s Place Tacloban. I have to say, that was one nice provincial mall.

It may not have been the most exciting of destinations (keepin’ it real y’all…) but Tacloban surely has left its mark on our hearts, largely due to the special couple we went there for and the foodie surprises we encountered along the way. Would we have a reason to come back? Probably. I am still bummed that we didn’t get to experience Libro Atbp., and the supposedly gorgeous beaches of Leyte, so yeah, maybe some day. That and I have to re-do my MacArthur photo because my idol uncle sent over his, and it clearly topped mine. RAWR!

This was Mona and Ode’s wedding souvenir, five months after it was given to me and Kite. Can you guess which is whose? ;-)

Just quickly, here’re this series’ posts. Damo nga salamat Tacloban! Ngada hit aton pagkita utro! (Special thanks to my Waray coach, Liisa. Haha!)

Downtown Tacloban: Of kisses, idols and photobombing kitties
Ocho Seafood and Grill: Of sarad, chance and coconut
San Juanico Bridge, Rafael Farms Garden Restaurant, and Gen. MacArthur Landing Memorial: Of postcard moments, diving ducks and “I shall return”
LeyChon Diner: Of lechon, lechon, and oh, did I mention lechon?

Tacloban, Leyte: Of lechon, lechon, and oh, did I mention lechon? (LeyChon Diner)

What is it with the Visayas islands and lechon?

Seriously.

Why do they have the most freakishly delicious roast pork? You know, the type that’s dripping with herby goodness and doesn’t need sarsa. The one that makes your mouth and tummy scream “Eat mooooore…” while your brain and heart goes “Noooooo!”.  The one that makes you down rice and cola, things you normally wouldn’t touch even with a ten-foot pole.

Gaaaah.

I hope you see only two pigs in this photo…

If you noticed (it’s perfectly fine if you didn’t) in the first sentence above, I used Visayas, instead of the province whose lechon is of international fame, Cebu. I’ve had multiple encounters with Cebu lechon before – the one in C. Padilla St. remains my all-time favorite  – and Kite and I came across something really close to it in Leyte (and saw heaps of lechon stalls scattered across the city, actually) that I feel merits the generalization.

LeyChon was our second unexpected food discovery in Tacloban, Ocho being the first. The day we found it, we were originally gunning for Café Lucia, but since the more popular resto was closed, we hunted down LeyChon instead. We had passed by the diner a couple of times while in transit on earlier occasions and already got intrigued by its clever play on names so we decided to go for it.

Kite and I were fortunate enough to be the first customers that day and we got all the benefits that came along with that distinction. We saw the place in its untouched glory (bright and cheery with interesting artwork on the walls), had the crew’s undivided attention (always a plus) AND got first dibs on the lechon served that day (read: no shortage of the much anticipated crackling skin). Triple win!

Yellow, sunny and bright, the UST graduate I was with couldn’t be any happier. :-P

After a rather quick discussion with the waiter, we decided to order half a kilo of lechon, and a plate each of pancit Leyte and rellenong talong. We also got buko pie with pandan ice cream for dessert. The end result?

Heart attack-inducing calorie heaven.

The lechon was everything we wanted it to be. The generous amount of skin served to us was still warm and was very much crisp. The meat was tender, had copious amounts of lovely rendered fat and exploded with that characteristic flavor of lemongrass mingling with a mix of other herbs and spices. Our moans and groans and oohs and aahs of pleasure with matching clenched fists and closed eyes were just too much, it was good that we were the only ones in the resto that time. :-P

Kite and I gobbled what could’ve fed four. It was that goood!

A macro shot to make you more envious. Permission to drool granted.

My heart probably wasn’t as happy as Spongebob and me…

You need this more to cut the fattiness of the pork rather than as a flavor enhancer. Forgot to ask what kind of vinegar this is though…

The other plates on the table fared equally as well. The pancit Leyte, which to me appeared to be just the province’s version of pancit canton, was loaded with a cornucopia of seafood and veggies. The noodles were wonderfully firm accompanied by a sauce that was perfectly seasoned and was rich but not too cloying. The same observations held for their rellenong talong, or tortang talong for us Tagalogs. The dish which if I’m not mistaken was made of three eggplants (!) was brimming with bits of tomatoes and other vegetables, and was fortunately not oily.

As for the dessert, I was a fan. While it will not win any awards for the creaminess of its ice cream component, the classic flavor combination was a homerun. I told Kite “Wow. Why didn’t I think about this?“.  The mini-coconut pie was pretty good, with a dollop of buko meat inside and a slightly cheesy and crumbly crust . The only thing I would probably change about it is that it could’ve been served a tad warmer. Other than that, it’s a beauty!

Can anyone confirm if Warays really serve pancit this way?

To offset the bad calories daw. Healthy daw kasi kami. Hahaha!

Major points for the presentation, yes? Didn’t expect this level of attention to detail when it was laid before us.

Tip: request for the pie to be warmed before being served. I feel that will elevate this already beautiful meal-ender to the next level.

We spoke to the staff and asked how long LeyChon has been around and they told us it opened only late last year. I figured that was why I haven’t read or heard anything about it online or from friends who hail from Tacloban. That being said, I hope LeyChon continues to prosper and attract a steady customer base. I would hate to see this diner go to waste, especially since I see that it potentially has the makings of being an iconic Leyte restaurant as much as CnT and/or Zubuchon are in Cebu. If every customer experiences the same quality of food and service Kite and I had, I say LeyChon has a chance. :-)

I haven’t tried enough lechons from Leyte for me to validate their claim of being “Leyte’s Best Lechon” but I can wholeheartedly say theirs is pretty darn good. :-)

***

LeyChon Diner
384 Richcom Bldg, Real & Kalipayan St.
Tacloban City, Leyte, Philippines, 6500
Telephone: +6353 321 9865
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/LeyChon-Diner/468327333188285

Tacloban, Leyte: Of postcard moments, diving ducks and “I shall return” (San Juanico Bridge, Rafael Farms Garden Restaurant, and Gen. MacArthur Landing Memorial)

I worked as a student assistant for the Samahang Pisika ng Pilipinas back in the day. Two years prior to my senior, I experienced working with tremendously brilliant minds (geniuses I tell you!) and got paid in the process. One of the perks of the job was being tagged along international Physics conferences hosted in the Philippines that brought me to places like Panglao in 2004 and the Guimaras Islands in 2005. Looking back, I think that had a huge influence on why I love moving around so much now.

One of the fondest, non-work memories I had as an SA was when I first stepped on the world-famous Chocolate Hills of Bohol. We had officially closed that year’s congress and had a day to go around the province’s sites. I clearly recall being on top of one of those hills, doing a 360-degree melodramatic turn and saying to myself: “Woah. This looks and feels sooo much better than looking at a postcard.” It felt a bit dreamy then, realizing how prior to that I’ve only seen photos of the landmark, and there I was physically present, marveling at it.

This post and the photos below aren’t about that trip (oh how I wish I had already been blogging back then), but about how I felt the exact, same sentiment when we visited the following Tacloban destinations…

***

After the day of the wedding, Mona, Ode, and members of their immediate families, being the gracious hosts that they are, took their Manila guests (that’s us!) out on a day-trip to tour places the province is known for. We boarded two vans and drove off to the San Juanico Bridge first, the Philippines’ longest (for those spanning a body of seawater that is), connecting the provinces of Leyte and Samar, headed to the gorgeous and enviable Rafael Farms Garden Restaurant to eat lunch, and finally, ended the day by drinking cola and eating ice cream under the December afternoon sun while looking at the bronze statues of the Gen. MacArthur Landing Memorial.

Little more to say really, but to reiterate what I already mentioned above. Nothing quite like the feeling one gets from being at places one has only seen in print and witnessing it in real life for the first time. Magic!

***

We where like kids when we stopped here! We waited for incoming traffic, and when we saw none, we ran to the center, did jump shots and took photos! Not a lot of bridges in Manila where you can do that. :-P

Tip: When you get here don’t forget to look left and right. The scenes are magnificent!

We caught locals taking photos of us as they drove along. They must’ve been like “Tourists…”. Funny! :-P

Really? That people have to be reminded of this made me a bit sad.

The acrophobic trying to be brave. And those side beams weren’t that high ah. Yikes!

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. This farm-slash-park was a refreshing respite that afternoon. It was unfortunate we didn’t have that much time to spend here. I wouldn’t mind relaxing here all day.

No animals were harmed in this photo. Haha! I thought these ducks were dead or doing some sort of synchronized swimming. Turned out they were bobbing up and down for food. Kyoooot!

The resto at the center of the farm looked rustic and welcoming. It was cool inside and insects were nowhere to be found. The food was actually good too! We were just a bit too famished that I wasn’t able to take photos anymore. :-P

Good use of recycled materials for the interiors. I like.

Little girl’s thought bubble: “What are these guys doing here? They’re so tan they must’ve been here for so long…”

Kidding aside, it feels good to see something that supposedly was a significant part of Philippine history. (At least that’s what I learned from my grade school HeKaSi teacher. Hehe…)

Question: Are those MacArthur’s and if they were, how did they get those footprints again?

Of achievements, nostalgia and Easter

WordPress has been teasing me about it for the past few weeks. I first noticed it when I wrapped up the Tokyo series, and since then, the number inched closer and closer. 196, 197, 198, 199, and then boom.

This post marks thepaoloproject.com’s (once known as the mouthful paolomandingiado.wordpress.com) 200th

A photo that captured my summer of 2013, and the festive feeling I have because of this 200th entry. :-)

Yeah, yeah, sure, big deal. Initially, I too thought that it shouldn’t be until I recalled how I so unceremoniously disregarded this lowly website’s first two anniversaries. How dare me, right?

This blog has been a roller coaster ride, which makes sense, given that is about me and my life. It has been a platform for emotionally charged posts by a random self-absorbed guy, a channel that had me getting readers from as far as Madagascar, Liechtenstein, and Venezuela,  and receiving e-mails from Russia (!), an avenue where I have met people as grossly interested to travel and gastronomy as I am (you know who you are!), and has been both a source of pain (sometimes) and joy (most of the times). Crazy, I tell you, but good crazy. :-)

Putting things into perspective, I realize it deserves some recognition, even a personal one, considering how it’s evolved from my first entry (which, ironically, was on an All Saints’ Day) to what it is right now. So yeah, this is me gloating about this milestone. Yey to me! *unabashedly pats self in the back*

***

Just this past weekend, I visited my mom’s hometown in Nueva Ecija. It was a different province from how I fondly remember it to be (something I immediately recognized after stepping off of the van), but similar to The Paolo Project, it has made me appreciate how far I’ve come along.

I almost forgot how gooooood fresh carabao’s milk is with hot, steaming rice and a pinch of salt. Yuuuuum breakfast.

Our makopa, kamachile, kaimito and coconut trees have all been cut down, but I was happy these Indian mangoes stayed around.

Reading Wicked on a hammock under a mango tree. Provincial life with a modern Nexus 7 twist.

Gone are the simpler days of sleeping on a wooden bed under the shade of the mango trees, or those playful times of picking the sweetest, freshest siniguelas from my Lolo’s backyard, or the excitement of swimming the river just behind our ancestral house. Everyone has grown up too, so quickly it seemed, that the collective memories of our younger selves almost seemed like they were from eons ago. Thinking about all of these made the trip so melancholic, wistful, contemplative.

Such is life I suppose, ever-changing, ideally (hopefully) for the better. For me, I think it is. I know it is.

Not exactly the Nueva Ecija of my childhood anymore, but it was good to be back. Ah, memories…

Tacloban, Leyte: Of sarad, chance and coconut (Ocho Seafood and Grill)

It is no secret that I’m borderline obsessive-compulsive. I’ve been known to be quite the perfectionist, control freak (the tolerable type, I hope), am a huge fan of careful planning and is madly, deeply in love with spreadsheets. Don’t get me wrong, I can be spontaneous if the situation calls for it (really, really impulsive, actually :-P ), but most of the times, I prefer schedules and structure.

This is why I feel two of our Tacloban food finds (and the trip in general, now that I think about it) are a fluke. No plans. No destinations in mind. No preparation at all.

First case in point: Ocho Seafood and Grill.

Don’t be fooled by this facade…

Ocho was a serendipitous find. Kite and I were just aimlessly walking around (no, actually, we were looking for some hangout spots :-P ) on our last night in town when we noticed our stomachs grumbling. We have already passed by several fast food chains and some nondescript roadside restaurants but, for reasons I cannot remember, we eventually only got interested in exploring Ocho. (I think I was craving for seafood then and I saw the sign?) Little did we know it’s a fairly popular restaurant in the city, and, after sharing a meal for two, we understood that it was for very good reasons.

We really didn’t expect what we saw when we stepped in. The outside of Ocho betrayed its inside to some degree; the interiors were almost too posh, what with its ceiling details and rows, upon rows of bottles of wine. Kite and I went “Oh. This is a surprise.“, and a nice one at that.

…as these will welcome you once you get in. Ambience ba kamo?

This one was right beside our table. Who would’ve thought?

After being assigned a table, we were led to a dampa-esque area at the back of the resto where diners pointed and picked among a wiiide range of fresh seafood. (It was unfortunate that they didn’t allow people to take photos of their spread, though. I found no reasons for them not to, but I didn’t bother asking why…) There, guests are asked how much by weight their order is and in what way they prefer it cooked: grilled, fried, adobo, you know, the works.

To help us down our food, we ordered fresh mango (mine) and guyabano (Kite’s) fruit shakes. The mango was good, but major points for the guyabano.

It was a gargantuan task choosing from the many options, so we left our dinner’s fate to the recommendations of the ladies who served us. They gladly (and quite honestly, I must say) gauged how much will do for a serving for two and what we ended up with are supposedly their bestsellers: a bivalve called shell sarad, adobo-style, shrimps fried in garlic and squid served on a sizzling plate doused in sweet spicy sauce.

We sat down, enjoyed the feast bestowed by the Philippine seas, and well, nothing else to say but craving very much satisfied. :-) The sarad (apparently pen shell in English) had an interesting chewiness, with a texture and taste reminiscent of kuhol or golden snails crossed with that of the familiar mussels or clams. The way the adobo was cooked was peculiar too, with a sauce that was a bit viscous. Don’t worry, it’s the good kind of peculiar. ;-)

Excellently prepared too were the squids and shrimps. While advertised as “fried“, the shrimps weren’t oily at all. Both it and the sizzling squid turned out tender and sweet, and the sauces were not cloying and kicked varying levels of heat. Kite, no doubt, loved it, and so did I. :-)

Our waitress was “Sir, I recommend adobong shell sarad.” and we were like “Sarad? What’s sarad?”. Ayan. Ayan ang sarad. Cheers to bizarre foods!

Fried. Sweet. Garlic. Shrimp. How can you go wrong with that?

The color was a bit off when we first saw it – too bright I think – but one bite and were won over by Ocho’s sweet spicy sizzling squid. Spicyyy!

Oh, they have a menu too, and we chose two items from it, again based from the staff’s suggestions: porbidang kangkong and chicken binakol. The vegetable dish we ordered to balance off the calories from all the seafood, but well, it failed on doing that. Haha! It was extra rich and creamy! Think laing, but less viscous.  So much for adding a healthy component to the meal. :-P

From the menu: “Porbidang kangkong is an Ilonggo vegetable dish made with kangkong leaves stewed in a spicy broth of coconut milk. This rich dish goes perfectly with a great heaping of warm rice and is one of our bestsellers.”. Hay. Rice.

Now the chicken binakol, oh the chicken binakol… As amazing as their marine fare was, Kite and I  were floored by this. Comfort food at its finest! The broth was to die for; naturally sweet, flavorful, heartwarming, the type of soup you’d like to sip whole night long. The person who invented this dish, adding coconut water and coconut meat to an otherwise average stock of boiled chicken, was a genius!

And this one at Ocho? I remember this was the day Pacquiao lost a match to Marquez. Chicken binakol made us forget about that. It was that goood…

And the award for best dish of the night goes to… a dish with no seafood! Haha! Can’t get over how awesome the flavors of this dish were. By the way, what other dishes are served on empty coconut shells like this one?

A closer look. See those white slivers? After we slurped all the soup away, we even scraped the leftover coconut meat on the inner sides of the shell. PG mode lang. :-P

Ocho may be onto something as they claim they are “Tacloban’s finest seafood restaurant”. While I have no basis of comparison, I would still highly recommend it to anyone going to Tacloban. I hear Liisa (a proud local) and Kebs (her very own Jay Durias :-P ) loves it here too, so I guess Kite and I are not an isolated case. That being said, don’t skip their chicken binakol! Don’t even think about it, just order for one. Well, unless you’re allergic to coconut, or great food. :-P

And yeah. Goes to show some of the best things in life we come across with even on unplanned occasions. Woot! ;-)

Ocho Seafood and Grill: Tacloban’s finest seafood restaurant

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Ocho Seafood and Grill
Senator Enage Street, Tacloban City
Leyte, Philippines, 6500
Telephone: +6353 325 4171, +6353 523 3220
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/OchoGrill

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